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Post by Clotilde on May 19, 2016 23:02:49 GMT -5
How do I keep them healthy, and avoid bottom rot and blight? I'm going to be devastated if I lose them.
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Greg
Junior Member
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Post by Greg on May 20, 2016 2:30:53 GMT -5
I grow them in 10 gallon tubs with new compost each season and sterilize the bucket before use, well kind of just wash it out well. Sterilize is an exaggeration. I grow the orange cherry types (sweet gold or something like that) on the south facing wall of my house. We have a lot of snails here but I slug pellet the concrete around the buckets base and they never seem to get them. I feed them a little but other than that just water daily. For about 6 weeks we have a massive glut and don't need to buy them. The children eat at least 40 tomatoes per day. A few of the leaves go yellow but don't have a problem with the crop.
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Post by Marya Dabrowski on May 20, 2016 7:00:22 GMT -5
We have a big problem with blight if we don't have straw around the entire base of the plant. We've been told the blight is from the micro-organisms in the dirt splashing back up and getting on the leaves when you water them. Right away, if possible, put straw or scotchbrite (possibly bark mulch but I don't trust that even) all around your plant. Then I water them 30-60 sec. per plant almost every day.
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Post by jen51 on May 20, 2016 7:44:19 GMT -5
I agree with the mulch- it's important. It helps with the soil splashing on them (weird, since they live in soil!) but it also helps keeps the moisture in. Tomatoes love even moisture. There's nothing more annoying than looking forward to that big juicy tomato, only to find it the next day with a big crack for uneven moisture.
The end rot can more than likely be cured by treating the plant with calcium. We grow heirloom tomatoes, and they, even more than the hybrids seem to suffer from end rot. To combat it, we sprinkle a couple tablespoons in the hole when planting. If the first few tomatoes start to rot on the bottom, we sprinkle a couple tablespoons around the base of the plant and don't have any other problems for the rest of the season, usually. If they start to rot again, apply more calcium. Bone meal powder works wonderfully for this. If you're having problems with rotting squash and peppers, try the same trick.
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Post by Clotilde on May 20, 2016 9:22:44 GMT -5
I agree with the mulch- it's important. It helps with the soil splashing on them (weird, since they live in soil!) but it also helps keeps the moisture in. Tomatoes love even moisture. There's nothing more annoying than looking forward to that big juicy tomato, only to find it the next day with a big crack for uneven moisture. The end rot can more than likely be cured by treating the plant with calcium. We grow heirloom tomatoes, and they, even more than the hybrids seem to suffer from end rot. To combat it, we sprinkle a couple tablespoons in the hole when planting. If the first few tomatoes start to rot on the bottom, we sprinkle a couple tablespoons around the base of the plant and don't have any other problems for the rest of the season, usually. If they start to rot again, apply more calcium. Bone meal powder works wonderfully for this. If you're having problems with rotting squash and peppers, try the same trick. I should probably go ahead an get some bone meal then, I also bought a climbing rose. I may even have some! |
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Post by mundacormeum on May 20, 2016 11:35:01 GMT -5
I like the 10 gallon tub idea, Greg. We have several huge tubs....not sure how many gallons, but my kids can fit inside them, so they are probably big enough for a tomato plant or two. And, we have tons of rich compost out in the barn. I might try that this year. I'll have to buy plants, though....it's too late to start seeds as far south as we are.
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Post by RitaMarita on May 21, 2016 7:12:40 GMT -5
We have little cherry tomatoes that tend to become like weeds in our garden. We have never had much trouble with them turning out right.
Here are a couple things that might help with the bigger ones:
Having tomatoes in the sun rather than the shade seems to help.
Some people also spray vinegar on the tomatoes plants to keep the beetles and bugs away...
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Post by mundacormeum on May 21, 2016 12:37:47 GMT -5
I was inspired by everyone's garden discussions. I went to the feed and seed store today, to see what kind of plants they had left. I picked up 21 plants for $2.21! we are on the late end for spring planting, so the guy there told me they'd give me a discount. I was pretty excited when I got to the register and saw just how much of a discount I got. Normal price would've been almost $30. So, later this afternoon, when it cools down some, my husband and kids are going to help me haul compost from the barn and get everything planted  . I got tomatoes, cucumbers, jalapenos, watermelon, and canteloupe. Even if I only get fruit from some of the plants, it'll be worth a try for that price. |
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Post by jen51 on May 21, 2016 18:38:03 GMT -5
Wow, way to go Munda! I love when we hit deals like that. We got a nice discount on 8 Fall Gold Raspberries this year because we bought them past their planting date. The great thing about them is that you often get fruit the first year.
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Post by mundacormeum on May 21, 2016 22:38:18 GMT -5
Every now and then, my procrastination skills come full circle and pay off  |
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Post by Marya Dabrowski on May 22, 2016 6:26:53 GMT -5
I agree with the mulch- it's important. It helps with the soil splashing on them (weird, since they live in soil!) but it also helps keeps the moisture in. Tomatoes love even moisture. There's nothing more annoying than looking forward to that big juicy tomato, only to find it the next day with a big crack for uneven moisture. The end rot can more than likely be cured by treating the plant with calcium. We grow heirloom tomatoes, and they, even more than the hybrids seem to suffer from end rot. To combat it, we sprinkle a couple tablespoons in the hole when planting. If the first few tomatoes start to rot on the bottom, we sprinkle a couple tablespoons around the base of the plant and don't have any other problems for the rest of the season, usually. If they start to rot again, apply more calcium. Bone meal powder works wonderfully for this. If you're having problems with rotting squash and peppers, try the same trick. I did not know this! I am going to pick some up my next time at the store. Thanks. |
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Post by Clotilde on May 22, 2016 13:59:20 GMT -5
Alright. I have a plan of attack. Thanks so much. I have to say, I read lots of articles but I think having someone who will actually answer your directly makes it so much easier to understand.
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Post by jen51 on May 22, 2016 18:44:48 GMT -5
I agree with the mulch- it's important. It helps with the soil splashing on them (weird, since they live in soil!) but it also helps keeps the moisture in. Tomatoes love even moisture. There's nothing more annoying than looking forward to that big juicy tomato, only to find it the next day with a big crack for uneven moisture. The end rot can more than likely be cured by treating the plant with calcium. We grow heirloom tomatoes, and they, even more than the hybrids seem to suffer from end rot. To combat it, we sprinkle a couple tablespoons in the hole when planting. If the first few tomatoes start to rot on the bottom, we sprinkle a couple tablespoons around the base of the plant and don't have any other problems for the rest of the season, usually. If they start to rot again, apply more calcium. Bone meal powder works wonderfully for this. If you're having problems with rotting squash and peppers, try the same trick. I did not know this! I am going to pick some up my next time at the store. Thanks. Sure! |
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Post by jen51 on May 22, 2016 18:45:32 GMT -5
Alright. I have a plan of attack. Thanks so much. I have to say, I read lots of articles but I think having someone who will actually answer your directly makes it so much easier to understand. I agree. Discussion boards are great that way! |
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. I got tomatoes, cucumbers, jalapenos, watermelon, and canteloupe. Even if I only get fruit from some of the plants, it'll be worth a try for that price.